Manitou
For how many years the Indians
had resorted to the Springs which seemed to them the visible
manifestation and beneficent gift of the Good Spirit, no
historian will affirm. To these "medicine waters" they brought
their aged and sick for cure, and the earliest explorers found
their arrow heads in the rocky basins, and their votive
offerings of wampum hung in the trees. Their council fires
blazed in the close-crowding mountains, and in the cottonwood
groves they camped with exceeding delight.
Zebulon Pike and Major Long were not far
from these natural wonders, but left no description of them. The
first white man's camp of which mention is made, is that of
Colonel A. G Boone, who sojourned at Manitou during the winter
of 1S33, for the health of his two sons. He had good right to a
stake in the wilderness, being a grandson of Daniel Boone.
During this time he was unmolested by Indians, but had ample
opportunity to observe the reverential rites by which they
approached the sacred waters. In 1843 Fremont came, drank of the
springs, made an analysis and departed, leaving them to be known
as Fremont's Soda Springs for many years thereafter. In 1S47
George F. Ruxton, an Englishman, and member of the Royal
Geographical Society, journeyed up alone from Mexico, and wrote
the first graphic account of Manitou, published in " Life and
Adventures in Mexico," some account of which appears in our
first volume.
Fitz Hugh Ludlow, fifteen years later,
wrote a glowing and imaginative picture of Manitou, given in an
earlier volume of this history. The residents of today
felicitate themselves that Ludlow's prophecy has been more than
realized. In 1871 the Fountain Colony purchased two-thirds of
the "villa sites," on four hundred and eighty acres near the
mineral springs, with the exception of one hundred acres
reserved for the springs proper. In the general drawing of lots,
these were included. The Soda Springs were originally preempted
by N. G. Wyatt & Co., in the early history of Colorado City. The
new town was named "Villa La Font," an artificial title, which
happily fell speedily into disuse.
General R. A. Cameron was vice-president
and superintendent of the Fountain Colony. Born in Illinois, and
successively physician, politician and soldier, he brought back
from the war immense energy to be directed into the quieter
channels of colonization. He was largely interested in the
Greeley Colony, and it was now his mission to lecture on "
Colorado and Colonization " through the East. The fame of the
springs and the climate spread afar; the latter being favorably
contrasted with " Cuba and Florida," the health resorts of the
day, instead of the present comparisons with the Engadine.
We have already spoken of the strenuous
efforts made by the pioneers to open a road to the mining
country through Ute Pass. Now there were three prospective
cities to be benefited by such a highway, and in June, 1871, the
commissioners were authorized, by the people's vote, to issue
bonds for $15,000, to build the road. Judge E. T. Stone had
fathered the project, and to his efforts were due the success of
its preliminary organization.
E. T. Colton was the contractor for the
road-building, " a much more formidable work than it at first
promised to be, owing to the difficulty of removing the
tremendous masses of syenite rock. Ute Pass road crippled Mr.
Colton financially, but was an immeasurable benefit to the towns
of El Paso.
Manitou Springs is linked with
the springs around which it was founded. Dr. Edwin James, team
botanist of the Long Expedition of 1820, discovered the
health-giving mineral waters, Thereafter, explorers made it a
point to investigate the now famous boiling springs, so named
for the rumbling sound of escaping gas rather than their
temperature.
George Frederick Ruxton, an
English military officer, wrote extensively about the benefits
of the springs in his 1846 book, Life in the Far West; an
international best seller. Ruxtons book would influence
General William J. Palmer and Dr. William A. Bell to visit the
area in 1868, while on a railroad survey for the Kansas Pacific.
Palmer planned to build a railroad from Denver to Mexico and
Bell, an English physician, saw the potential of the medicinal
springs as the centerpiece for a European-style health resort
that would draw passengers to this new venture. The future town
of La Font was laid out in 1871, but investor William Blackmore
suggested the alternative name of Manitou mentioned in the
Song of Hiawatha by Longfellow.
In the meantime, Manitou
Springs were being developed, and under the charge of Mr. Blair,
a Scotch landscape gardener, the natural and picturesque
features of the place were brought out, without an appearance of
artificiality. Indian trails became "Lover's Lanes;" rustic
bridges spanned the streams, rustic pagodas rose over the
mineral basins, gnarled tree trunks became rural seats; and the
clematis vines, whose unstinted wealth is one of Manitou's
beauties, were trained to embower every nook.
In the winter of 1871-72 the
Manitou House was completed. Before this, however, Manitou had
entertained its first party of distinguished guests. In the
autumn of 1871 the " press of the Territory"' was tendered an
excursion to "La Font." The party arrived in time for a midday
dinner at Captain Dick Sopris' eating house, celebrated under
his management, and also under that of Mrs. McDowell, and were
afterward driven through the Garden of the Gods to La Font,
where they were accommodated for the night in "the temporary
hotel."
From the reports of the colony
company we cull the following notices, which make up
(officially) the early history of Manitou:
1877. Manitou has a
population of 350. It can scarcely receive any additional aid
from man, since nature has done so much for it. It can, and
doubtless will become the watering place to which all who visit
Colorado will gravitate, as a matter of course.
1878. Manitou had 5,651 hotel
arrivals between May 1st and September 1st. Colorado Springs and
Manitou are today provided with an abundance of excellent water.
The water is taken from Ruxton's Creek above Manitou. The
Manitou Hotel has been repainted, repaired and leased for four
years. The bathhouse has recently been leased for a term of five
years, for a net rental of $400 the first year, and $500 for
each succeeding year.
1879. During the year the
company has sold two lots at Manitou for $625. The three hotels
have been well filled with guests during the summer months. One
of these hotels has remained open throughout the winter. Plans
are now being made by the owner for adding about one hundred
rooms to one of the hotels, and it is hoped that arrangements
may be perfected during the coming year to build the five miles
of railroad needed to allow the cars of the Rio Grande Company
to run directly into Manitou.
1880. In July last, the
Denver & Rio Grande Company completed a short line of railroad
connecting Manitou with Colorado Springs, and five passenger
trains are now run each way daily. The Colorado Springs company
sold the Manitou hotel in June last for $30,000. Since this sale
the purchaser has built a large addition thereto, nearly
doubling the capacity of the house. The other hotels at Manitou
have been enlarged and improved, and several stores, cottages
and residences have been built. The total cost of new buildings
erected and improvements on hotels at Manitou during 1880. is
estimated at $100,000.
1881. The hotels at Manitou
have enjoyed a very profitable season. They are now four in
number. A handsome stone station house has been erected by the
railway company. It is estimated that the cost of new buildings
erected at Manitou in 18S1, was $70,000. The Cave of the Winds
has been supplied with ladders, and made accessible. The town
plat of Manitou has been thoroughly resurveyed.
1882. Several new stores have
been opened, a town hall built, and a weekly newspaper started.
A company has been organized to utilize and improve the mineral
springs, and to bottle and ship the soda water. Their plans
include a new and larger bathhouse and a park, with pavilion and
walks, surrounding the springs, which will be enlarged and
developed. Capitalists from the East have purchased a large
tract of land adjoining Manitou, and will enter largely into
bottling the Iron Spring water fur shipment to the East. On July
2d, 1882, a very destructive cloud burst occurred at Manitou,
sweeping light buildings from their foundations, destroying
vegetation, and killing the little son of C. L. Gillingham, who
was swept away by the torrent in William Canyon.
1883. Manitou has enjoyed a
season of unprecedented prosperity. One-third more people were
accommodated at the hotels and boarding houses than ever before.
Real estate has increased twenty-five to fifty per cent, in
value. The Colorado Springs Company has leased to the Manitou
Mineral Bath, Water and Park Company, all the mineral springs at
Manitou and the park around them, for a rental of $500 per year,
and a royalty of one cent for every quart of mineral water sold.
This bath company has erected during the year a large bathhouse.
It contains twenty bathrooms for mineral baths, and a large
swimming bath. It was erected at a cost of $21,000. Arrangements
have been made to bottle and ship the mineral water.
During the past year surveys
were completed for a railroad from Manitou to the summit of
Pike's Peak, etc.
The town authorities have
completed a substantial irrigating ditch for the purpose of
furnishing water to trees which will be planted along the
streets and other public places.
In 1883 the National Land &
Improvement Co., ceased to exist as a Pennsylvania corporation,
in order to reorganize in Colorado. It had previously been
subject to the laws of Pennsylvania. It had lived long enough to
see Manitou in the heyday of its prosperity; the new enterprises
well under way; even to that of bottling the water, concerning
which, the first Fountain Colony circular had prophesied twelve
years before as to the establishment of a "bottling business."
Manitou lies as in a cradled
nest, in a cup-shaped glen which is properly the opening of Ute
Pass, at an elevation of 6,123 feet above sea level. The town is
shut away from winds by a mountain wall, whose precipitous sides
rise almost from her streets. Pike's Peak trending westward, and
just visible above the crowded summits, gleams like a silver hem
to the blue mantle of the sky. To this tract of land Colonel
Chivington of Sand Creek notoriety laid claim, which was not
sustained. Before the railway came, the town followed the course
of the Fontaine in a straggling, irregular street.
The Manitou House, Manitou
Mansions (or Beebee House) the Cliff, and the old Iron Springs
Hotel (long since burned) were the principal hotels. A lumbering
stage coach plied between the town and Colorado Springs, and a
horse from Manitou was* thrown into convulsions of terror if he
heard the shriek of his iron brother at the Colorado Springs
depot. Deer and big horn were occasionally shot from the hotel
piazzas, and bears wandered down into the canyons. A resident
wears upon his watch chain a sharp and significant claw, a token
of a victorious tussle with a bear found in his garden patch,
bright and early one autumn morning.
In summer the life was that of
a mimic and primitive Saratoga ; in the winter, when a single
hotel, or later, two, would decide to remain open for the the
winter visitors donned mountain suits, and with the aid of stout
alpen stocks, explored glens and hills, or lingered through
sunny days on the rocks near the Springs. The amusements were
horseback and burro riding, and the small gayeties which cluster
about a hotel center.
Manitou's groups of soda
springs lie along the banks of the Fontaine. It is well that a
more picturesque nomenclature has replaced the old. The Indians
called the Navajo by a name signifying the "Beast," but it was
Prof. Hayden, who had at his command a vocabulary more than
aboriginal, who named a spring the "Galen," or the "Doctor." The
Indian tradition of these springs, dating back to "long, long
ago," when the cottonwoods on the Big River were no higher than
an arrow, is given at the close of Volume I. The visitor may
determine by the aid of his own palate, which spring is sweet,
and which is embittered by that primal crime. These springs
belong to the general group of carbonated soda waters, their
temperature varies from 43° to 56°.
The famous Iron Ute lies about
a mile from the heart of Manitou in Englemann's Canyon; a short
distance further in the pine grove, is the round basin of the
Little Chief. We give in general terms the cases benefited by
Manitou mineral water, as stated in a pamphlet written by Dr. S.
E, Solly. The springs may be divided into three groups as
follows:
I. Carbonate Soda proper
Navajo, Manitou, Minnehaha.
II. Purging Carbonated Soda
Little Chief, Shoshone.
III. Ferruginous Carbonated
Soda Iron Ute, Little Chief.
The Navajo is beneficial in
cases of enlargement of the liver, spleen, corpulence and
similar conditions, chronic bronchial catarrh, gout, chronic
dyspepsia, incipient phthisis and chronic Bright's disease.
Bathing in it is good for skin diseases and muscular rheumatism.
A safe remedy is found in the
Shoshone for most cases of functional derangement of the liver.
The Little Chief is best adapted for treatment of those cases in
which the administration of iron is indicated, and at the same
time some disturbance of the functions of the liver is a
pressing symptom. Chlorosis and anaemia are benefited by use of
the Iron Ute. The popular Apollinaris water closely resembles
the Navajo soda, and the Ems and Neuenhaur are almost
identically the same in composition. The Shoshone is a good
substitute for Hunyadi Janos, and as chalybeate waters do their
work more effectually at a high elevation, the value of the Iron
Ute, at an altitude greater than any European mineral spring, is
enhanced.
A newly discovered, or
rediscovered group of mineral springs has recently been opened
in Englemann's Canon, by Mr. Norman Jones. These springs are
alleged to be twelve in number and of different chemical
combinations. The group (in 1890) was claimed by the Iron
Springs Company, and is now in litigation.
The town of Manitou, in 1890,
had from twelve to fifteen hundred permanent residents, a
population increased in the past year by 100,000 visitors,
brought to her gates by the Denver & Rio Grande, and the
Colorado Midland. The streets have spread up the canyon
highways, and are lighted by electricity (the electric light
company was formed in 1887 by Dr. William A. Bell. The plant is
of Houston Thomson make, and cost $15,000. Both the arc and
incandescent lights are supplied.) During the same year Manitou
put in an independent system of waterworks, having till then
used the Ruxton system in connection with Colorado Springs. The
water is taken from French Creek, one of the Fontaine's
tributaries. A settler was built thirteen hundred feet above the
town and four miles distant. A six inch main was laid to a
reservoir on Capitol Hill. This natural pressure system cost
$47,000. Since, $25,000 worth of bonds have been voted to lay an
additional twelve inch main to the reservoir. There are sixteen
public hydrants. The city is supplied with a fine brick
schoolhouse, built in 1888, at a cost of $25,000. It offers a
graded course of study, ending in the high school, which gives a
preparatory collegiate course of. three years. The school
attendance averages one hundred and sixty pupils. The second
story of the school building is occupied by a public hall,
seating three hundred.
The first church at Manitou was
Congregational, organized in 1879. The pastor. Rev. W. D.
Westervelt, worked with members of his flock in helping to
quarry the stone for this edifice, in Williams' Canyon. St.
Andrew's Episcopal church was established in 1880, by Rev. D. C.
Pattee as a mission. It has been self supporting since 1888, and
now owns $30,000 worth of property. Roman Catholic and Methodist
Episcopal churches were organized in 1889.
Besides the pioneer hotels, the
principal hotels are the "Barker," "Sunnyside," "Ruxton" and
"Devere." The new Iron Spring hotel erected by capitalists from
Alton, Illinois, was bought in 1890 by Major John Hulbert, Dr.
William A. Bell, Donald Fletcher and H. B. Chamberlin,
incorporated as "The Iron Springs Company," together with three
hundred and twenty acres of ground, the Iron Springs pavilions,
complete water system and electric light plant.
A fire company was organized at
Manitou in 1S79. The first of the ensuing year it took the name
of the W. A. Bell Hose, Hook & Ladder Co. The Masons and Odd
Fellows have lodges in Manitou, and there is a post of the G. A.
R. The Y. M. C. A. have a free reading room established here.
Jerome B. Wheeler of New York is at the head of a company which
established a bank in Manitou in May, 1889. A board of trade was
organized in September, 1889. The present officers are J. B.
Wheeler, president; Major John Hulbert, first vice-president;
Mr. W. D. Sawin, second vice-president; Mr. M. A. Leddy, third
vice-president; Honorable K. H. Grafton, secretary; Mr. J B
Glasser, treasurer; Messrs. D. L. Stirling, E. E. Nichols, and
Charles A. Grant, board of directors. The present membership
numbers sixty-nine.
Manitou post office, which was
a fourth class office in 1S85, is now raised to a Presidential
office.
The Manitou Mineral Water Co.,
of which mention has been made in the colony reports, purchased
the park where the soda springs are situated, in October, 1889.
The company in 1890 constructed a fine building for bottling
works, at a cost of $32,000, with machinery which will bottle
twenty thousand quarts per day. Besides bottling the mineral
water, the company also manufactures from it, the widely known
"Manitou Ginger Champagne." During 18S9, nine hundred thousand
bottles of soda and iron water, and ginger champagne were sold,
and the first half of 1890 has shown an increase of 125 per
cent, over this business. Forty hands are employed, and the pay
roll during the past year amounted to $22,000. General Charles
Adams, originator of this enterprise, is vice-president of the
company, whose stock is $200,000. Jerome B. Wheeler is
president; J. B. Glasser, secretary and treasurer; and D. L.
Stirling (formerly of Waukesha) manager; Louis R. Ehrich and J
A. Hayes, Jr., also are prominent stockholders.
The broken, diversified ground
in the neighborhood of Manitou is admirably adapted to
picturesque buildings, and such are perched everywhere on the
heights, from the Swiss chalet to the mansion of red sandstone.
A cottage once belonging to Grace Greenwood is situated on the
principal street. Agate Hill is the residence of Major John
Hulbert, Jerome B. Wheeler has a cottage on the high ground near
the Cliff House; Briarhurst, the home of Dr. W. A. Bell, was
burned several years ago, and has since been rebuilt and
enlarged. It is a typical English home, built of rosy stone,
with rambling porches and picturesque gables. Dr. Bell is the
owner of Moran's picture, the "Mount of the Holy Cross." At the
time of the conflagration, the gardener had the presence of mind
to cut the canvas from the frame, and thus the painting was
saved. Between Manitou and Colorado City, in a beautiful glen,
is situated the home of General Charles Adams, the saviour of
the Meeker women. The house is a museum of curious and artistic
objects collected by General and Mrs. Adams among the Indians
and in South America.
The Manitou Social Club was
formed in 1S90, and fitted up billiard, reading and writing
rooms and parlors in the Soda Bath Building. It has enrolled
forty-five members among the most influential men of the city.
The president is Mr. D. L. Stirling; Rev. J. C. S. Weills is
treasurer, and Mr. C. H. Grant secretary.
Pikes Peak. Dr. E. James,
serving in Long's expedition in the threefold capacity of
doctor, botanist and historian, made himself famous as the first
man known to have ascended Pike's Peak. Tradition for years has
had it that Grace Greenwood, riding her white donkey, Daisy, was
the first woman to stand upon the summit, but the following
account taken from the "Kansas Magazine" seems to prove the
contrary. A member of a party which had camped on the site of
Colorado City, writes as follows: ".A party of four left camp
early in the morning, and reached the highest point at sunset.
Time about twelve hours. I have seen several later ascensions
recorded in Colorado papers as the first, and one of the ladies
was named as the first woman who ever stood upon the summit of
Pike's Peak. I am sorry to deprive said lady of her laurels, but
the plain fact is, that one of our before mentioned ladies
ascended the mountain in question during the last week in July,
1858. She remained up there two days and nights, slept upon the
eternal snow, and wrote letters to the Eastern press dated at
the summit. She did not claim to be a heroine, but if a record
is to be made at all, it should be accurate, and I therefore
register our woman's name, Mrs. Julia Archibald Holmes, then a
resident of Kansas, but latterly of Washington, D. C, and
secretary of some national organization of women."
On the Fourth of July, 1872,
Pike's Peak became patriotic. It was arranged to have a grand
bonfire, followed by fireworks, and signal communication with
Colorado Springs. People from Denver and all the country round
flocked to the mountain's foot, only to find a wet blanket of
cloud, which hung there persistently all the evening. The United
States established a signal service bureau on the summit in
1873-74, and constructed a trail thereto, through the beautiful
Bear Creek Canon. A stone house was built (24x30 feet) of the
red rocks scattered on the summit, the highest human
habitation. This was afterward abandoned for a larger house
(30x55 feet). Three signal service officers alternated in
staying there during the year, and experienced a storm every
day, out of the three hundred and sixty-five. Observations were
made five times a day by means of a barometer, hygrometer,
self-registering thermometers (which took the maximum and
minimum temperature), anemometer and anemoscope. A heliograph
and flag signals were employed to communicate with the base
station. Three daily reports were made, also monthly, quarterly
and annual reports, which were sent to Washington from the haunt
of "Old Probs." In the winter of 1883-84 there were very heavy
snows on the trail, which rendered the ascent impracticable. One
officer, Mr. Ramsay, was there alone, and it was rumored that
signals of distress were seen flying on the Peak, probably
provisions were exhausted, and the officer was starving. The
story flew like wild fire as weeks went by; Eastern paragraphers
wrote their most pathetic periods about "the young life
perishing amid the eternal snows." Sums of money were proffered
to organize a relief party. On April 30th, Sergeant Hall with
two companions, set out upon the heroic work of rescue, equipped
with snow shoes, and carrying a supply of provisions. After
suffering incredible hardships, spending fifteen hours in
crossing a slope, usually passed in one and a half, the men
reached the summit, snow-blind, frostbitten, and staggered into
the station, expecting to be ushered into the very presence of
King Death. There sat the object of their hopes and fears, gaily
performing upon his banjo: the unconscious recipient of the
sympathy of a world. "A little fresh meat would be relishing,
but he had canned goods enough to last for two months."
On the summit of Pike's Peak is
a pile of rocks left by Hayden as a landmark. This is
embellished with a wooden slab inscribed:
"Fair Cynthia with her starry train.
Shall miss thee in thy silent rest.
And waft one sweet, one speric strain,
To Erin dear, among the blest." |
Erected by Sergeant John and
Norah O'Keef, to the Memory of their infant daughter Erin
O'Keef, who was destroyed by mountain rats. May 25th, A. D.,
1876."
Erin O'Keef is the phantasm of
the sole joke which the imagination of man has been able to
evoke from that dreary solitude. The late Judge Price of the "Mountaineer,"
the author, was the Jules Verne of El Paso. The officers of the
bureau were never married men, and there was not the slightest
foundation for the story, which was copied all over the United
States as a matter of fact as follows:
"The vast number of rats
inhabiting the rocky crevices and cavernous passages at the
summit of Pike's Peak, Colorado, have recently become formidable
and dangerous. These animals are known to feed upon a saccharine
gum that percolates through the pores of the rocks, apparently
upheaved by that volcanic action which at irregular intervals of
a few days gives to the mountain crest that vibratory motion
which has been detected by the instruments used in the office of
the United States Signal Station. Since the establishment of the
station, at an altitude of nearly 15,000 feet these animals have
acquired a voracious appetite for raw meat, the scent of which
seems to impart to them a ferocity rivaling the starved Siberian
wolf. The most singular trait in the character of these animals
is that they are never seen in the day time. When the moon pours
down her queenly light upon the summit, they are visible in
countless numbers, hopping among the rocky boulders that crown
this barren waste, and during the summer months they may be seen
swimming and sporting in the waters of the lake, a short
distance between the crest of the Peak, and on a dark, cloudy
night their trail in the water exhibits a glowing, sparkling
light, giving to the waters of the lake a flickering, silvery
appearance. A few days since, Mr. John O'Keef, one of the
government operators at the signal station, returned to his post
from Colorado Springs, taking with him a quarter of beef. It
being late in the after noon, his colleague, Mr. Hobbs,
immediately left with the pack animal for the Springs. Soon
after dark, while Mr. O'Keef was engaged in the office,
forwarding night dispatches to Washington, he was startled by a
loud scream from Mrs. O'Keef, who had retired for the night in
an adjoining bedroom, and who came rushing into the office
screaming, 'The rats! the rats!' Mr. O'Keef with great presence
of mind, immediately girdled his wife with a scroll of zinc
plating, such as had been used in the roofing of the station,
which prevented the animals from climbing upon her person, and
although his own person was almost literally covered with them,
he succeeded in encasing his legs each in a joint of stovepipe,
when he commenced a fierce and desperate struggle for his life
with a heavy war club preserved at the station among other
Indian relics captured at the battle of Sand Creek.
Notwithstanding hundreds were destroyed on every side they
seemed to pour (with increasing numbers) from the bedroom, the
door of which had been left open. The entire quarter of beef was
eaten in less than five minutes, which seemed only to sharpen
their appetite for an attack on Mrs. O'Keef, whose face, hands
and neck were terribly lacerated. In the midst of the war fare,
Mrs. O'Keef managed to reach a coil of electric wire hanging
near the battery, and being a mountain girl, familiar with the
throwing of a lariat, she hurled it through the air causing it
to encircle her husband, and spring out from its loosened
fastenings, making innumerable spiral traps, along which she
poured the electric fluid from the heavily charged battery. In a
moment the room was ablaze with electric light and whenever the
rats came in contact with the wire they were hurled to an almost
instant death. The appearance of daylight, made such by the
corruscation of the heavily charged wire, caused them to take
refuge among the crevices and caverns of the mountains, by way
of the bedroom window, through which they had forced their way.
But the saddest part of this night attack upon the Peak is the
destroying of their infant child, which Mrs. O'Keef thought she
had made secure by a heavy covering of bed clothing, but the
rats had found their way to the infant (only two months old),
and had left nothing of it but the peeled and mumbled skull."
In 1882-1883 the idea of a
railway to the summit of the Peak was projected, and was
afterward abandoned. About six miles of road were graded, making
now a favorite trail for horseback excursions to Crystal Park, a
sky-perched basin south of Cameron's Cone, with an altitude of
8,450 feet.
At the summit is one of the
most magnificent views of the Rocky Mountain region. Rocky
buttresses form long aisles below, and their projections are
duplicated in shadows which sweep over the valleys. The depths
of these unroofed cathedrals are unfathomed craters of
desolation. From the summit the eye loses itself in seeing.
Colorado Springs lies below like a chess board, with geometrical
squares; beyond the faint smoke of the Pueblo smelters, the
ocean of the plains upbears snowy cloud sails. Northward beyond
the crowding peaks lies Denver; westward the horizon closes in
with mountains, seemingly turned by the share of some gigantic
plow, driven by a mighty hand with a thunderous roll over the
face of the patient earth slope beyond slope, range beyond
range, with the tints where blue and violet meet in the solar
spectrum.
For the last decade, during the
summers, throngs of tourists have visited the Peak, by the
horseback trails through Englemann's and Bear Creek Canons; the
toll-road over Cheyenne Mountain, via Seven Lakes; or by the new
wagon road at Cascade Canon. The Signal Service was abandoned in
January, 1889, as not justifying its expenses, and the buildings
were turned over to the Pike's Peak Railroad Company.
The Pike's Peak Railway.
Major John Hulbert became possessor in 1889 of the mental
conviction that Manitou needed a railroad to the summit of
Pike's Peak. It was not long after that this conviction took
sole possession of the man. He was wont to look up to its
snowclad summits, from his handsome home at the mountain's base,
and the man was a casualty until the conviction became fact.
First he whispered the project to Jerome B. Wheeler, who readily
sympathized with it.
Henry Watson (the then
principal owner of the Iron Springs property) was next
interested in the novel project and with him it was arranged
that the Iron Springs should be made a terminal station. To
build the road a company must be organized with half a million
capital. In July Major Hulbert, Jerome B. Wheeler, and President
D. H, Moffat of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, subscribed for
$90,000 worth of this stock, and it was decided that Mr. Wheeler
and Major Hulbert should go to New York City to place the
balance Mr. Wheeler to go on at once. In September as Major
Hulbert placidly traveled Chicago-ward, he met and interested in
the road, Mr. Z. G. Simmons, of Kenosha, Wisconsin. Instead of
going on to New York, Major Hulbert went to Kenosha with his new
acquaintance and from there telegraphed to Mr. Wheeler that he
had sold the $410,000 of stock in the Pike's Peak Railroad to
Mr. Simmons and his friends Roswell P. Flower of New York, and
R. R. Cable, H. H. Porter and David Dows of Chicago.
A company was formed in the
fall, composed of Major Hulbert: R. R. Cable, president of the
Rock Island Road; David H. Moffat, president of the Rio Grande
Road, and First National Bank of Denver; Major Jerome B. Wheeler
of New York (whose summer home is in Manitou), and J. B. Glasser
of Manitou. The following are (1890) officers of the road: Major
Hulbert, president; R. R. Cable, vice-president; J B. Glasser,
secretary and treasurer; and Thomas F. Richards, engineer.
The terminals of the road are
at Iron Springs, Manitou, and at the Old Government Signal
Station the very top of Pike's Peak. Nearly a thousand men
have been employed since the company's organization when work
immediately began, grading and excavating, and in August, 1890,
trains were driven to the half way station. It is officially
asserted that the road will be in running order, from end to
end, before the expiration of 1890. The road is termed "a rack
railroad" built on the Swiss "Abt system." Its exact length is
(6,158 feet, very nearly eight and three-fourths miles. Its
altitude at Manitou is 6,600 feet, at the summit 14,200 feet
above sea level. Thus the average ascent is 846 feet in the
mile, and it is expected the engines going up will average a
speed of eight miles per hour. The track is of ordinary steel
rails, standard gauge, and the rack rail in which the cogwheel
of the engine drives is securely fastened to the ties in the
center of the track, thus consolidating the rails. The passenger
cars are not tilted or unlike ordinary day coaches, but are so
constructed that passengers will have a level footing on the
incline.
This railway is the highest in
the world and affords one of the grandest views on the globe,
while the scenes en route are nobly inspiring as one passes from
canon to precipice, from mountain cascades to fields of snow,
and from long vistas of foothills and plains, to the eagle's
eyrie, and above timber line or clouds.
In the center of Manitou, near
the Cliff House, is the entrance to Williams or more properly,
Manitou Canyon, remarkable for its varied geological formations;
its "Nar rows," and "Bridal Veil Falls." In June, 1880, John and
George Pickett were in the canyon taking a lesson in practical
geology under the guidance of Rev. R. T. Cross of Denver. Some
objection was made to their entrance by the proprietor of an
insignificant cavern on the mountain side. "Never mind, boys,"
said their teacher, "we will go and try to find a cave for
ourselves," and in fact they did, climbing up the canyon wall.
Here was the entrance to the Cave of the Winds, through a
formation resembling the Natural Bridge of Virginia. There are
one hundred rooms, mainly on three general levels; in the lowest
are fossilized skeletons of animals and fish. The principal
rooms are named Cascade Hall, Canopy, Alabaster Hall, etc.
It is an enormous system of
caverns which extends for an unknown distance under , ground.
The formation is Upper Silurian, the same geologically as that
of Luray, in Virginia.
The Manitou Grand Caverns, part
of the same system, were discovered by George Snider, in the
winter of 1883. His attention was attracted to a vapor issuing
from crevices in the ground. These caverns are approached by Ute
Pass road, beyond the Rainbow Falls of the Fontaine, and near
the point where looms Tim Bunker's " Pulpit " of red rocks. This
rock was so christened in 1871, by a party of Eastern editors in
honor of the Rev. Mr. Clift, whose nom de plume was Tim
Bunker. The most notable rooms in Manitou Grand Caverns are the
Opera House (500 feet long by 60 feet high), and the Bridal
Chamber. The Grand Organ has a compass of two octaves, and many
tunes can be played by striking the stalactites which form it.
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